Hypertufa Saksije



Vec duze vreme razmisljam da napravim ovako nesto. Vidim da se dosta dobro pokazalo sa biljkama za kamenjar i ostalim sitnim biljcicama, ali bih ja da probam da gajim vece biljke npr. bambuse, javore i ostalo.
Zasto sam o ovome raymisljao. Prvo zato sto saksije deluju dekorativno, skoro kao prirodan kamen, zatim lake su, prenosive, otporne na zimu, multinamenske.












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Ovde je pribilizno uputsvto kako se pravi:
The Martha Stewart Show, January 2010
Make beautiful garden containers that will last for years with this wonderful hypertufa technique. The term "hypertufa" refers to a type of artificial stone, and is a conglomerate of the words "tufa," a natural volcanic rock, and "hyper," a prefix meaning excessively or extremely; hypertufa are extremely rock-like containers.

You can use almost anything that has an interesting shape for a mold, such as an old tub, bin, or nursery pot. Keep in mind that this mixture is an approximation, and not an exact science -- you can play around with the measurements.

This recipe will make really light pots; if you want heavier, sturdier pots, simply add more cement to the mixture.

Tools and Materials

Rubber gloves
Dust mask
Perlite
Peat moss
Portland cement
Cement pigment (optional)
Acrylic fibers (if making larger-size pot)
Plastic tub
Water
Spray cooking oil
Mold (Martha used a nursery pot)
Small wooden dowel (optional)
Plastic bags
Wire brush or sandpaper
Buttermilk (optional)
Hypertufa Pots How-To
1. Wearing rubber gloves and a dust mask to avoid breathing cement dust, mix 3 parts perlite, 3 parts peat moss, and 2 parts Portland cement in a plastic tub. If desired, add cement pigment for color. If making a large pot, add acrylic fibers for strength.

2. Add water to tub, a bit at a time, until the mixture has the consistency of moist cottage cheese.

3. Spray inside of mold with cooking oil. Push a handful of wet hypertufa mixture firmly against the bottom of the mold. Repeat until you have made a bottom base that is approximately 1 inch thick. Push handfuls of wet hypertufa mixture firmly against the sides of container approximately 3/4 inches in thickness. Continue until rim of mold is reached. Press bottom and sides firmly to remove air pockets.

4. Create drainage hole by pushing finger or small dowell through the bottom of mold so that it penetrates the hypertufa mixture.

5. Cover with plastic bag, let for about 48 hours.

6. Take off plastic bag and remove pot from mold (pot with be slightly wet). Using a wire brush or sandpaper sponge, rough up the surface of the hypertufa for a more rustic appearance. Let sit for 2 to 3 weeks to completely.

7. If desired, coat pot with buttermilk and moss; the moss will grow around the pot.

Resources
Peat moss, perlite, and Portland cement are available at The Home Depot or your local hardware store or garden center. Acrylic fibers can be found at craft, hardware, and building supply stores.

Planting Succulents in Hypertufa Pots

Hypertufa pots are extremely versatile; many plants will grow well in them, including all types of succulents. Completely weatherproof, these pots work indoors or out and can freeze and thaw naturally as a result of their porous nature.

When planting, be sure to cover the drainage hole with a pottery shard to prevent soil from washing away. Half-fill container with potting soil suitable for succulents, such as Scotts Cactus Mix, or make your own with 3 parts high-quality soil-free potting soil, 1 part coarse sand, and 1 part perlite.

Arrange succulents on top of soil. Once happy with their placement, fill in around the root balls with potting mix, firming it down -- the base of the plants and the top of the soil should be 1/2 to 1 inch below the container rim; gently water. Top soil with pebbles or crushed stones for a neat finished appearance, if desired.




www.pinterest.com/sabr...hypertufa/

Super ideja i odlične fotke za prezentaciju!!

Ja sam ih napravila ,nekoliko komada ...,videla da znam iiii stala
Iskreno sada mi sluze kao dvorisni svecnjaci ...jednostavno ,efektno i shto je vrlo vazno repromaterijal mozes naci i u Srbiji....
vazna je dobra razmera ( da li ides na 3:3:1 ,3:3:2....- jedini uslov je da 25% iliti 1/4 bude cement ) ostale varijacije su bitne zbog kasnije boje (svetlije,ili tamnije ) Jako je vazno da 'odstoje' zasticene MINIMUM 24 sata ( ja sam ih drzala 48 -nije me uFatio neizdrz)
jos jedan trik - ako ih premazete sa jogurtom dobiju starinski izgled za vrlo kratko vreme( probano sa neobojenima) Kao boju sam koristila boju za beton ali sam ih bojila kasnije ( bojala sam se da mi ne budu 'citron ' zute )
znaci preporuka od srca ,mashta mize svashta

Koji je to portland cement u Srbiji, jel se to tako isto zove i ovde? Jel si probala sa nekim drugim belim cementom i ostalo? I nije mi jasno, mislis da odnos cementa mora uvek biti 25%, a perlitili vermikulit i spagnum moze da se dodaje u razlicitom odnosu?

Obican beli ( ima neki tamniji ) ,znachi trazish shto svetliji ( na mom je da je izz ...Albanije ili Turske ,neki uvoz ,dzak 580 dinara) Za cement je vazno da ga imash 25% jer je on vezivna materija ( sem ako ne pravish vece stvari pa ti trebaju i ina vlakna ( ima i toga po farbarama ) ili ,daj Boze ,armatura
Pada ludachka kisabi ne da mi se ici napolje da slikam ali chim stane ,slikacu ti sve
'zemlju' iliti 'peat moss' sam kupila u gc ( ona narastresitija koja podseca ,gotovo na piljevinu
Shto se tiche perlita mislim da imash bolji izbor nego ja ( zbog Termike) - ja sam ga ovde placala 150 kesicu

Pa ovde je bio veliki cak perilita u poljoapoteci 2000 din. Ne znam tacno kolko litara, ali velik, reko bih oko 80l. Ovo vreme je strasno, ja se samo molim da mi se neki veliki hrast ispred stana ne salomi i uleti u stan. Sutra najavljuju jos jace vetrove...
Kolko dugo treba da se susi kad se skine folija? Ima raznoraznih informacija po netu. Ajde to mogu i proceniti. A sto se tice vremena drzanja u foliji to bas jako varira kolko sam sretao po netu, negde sam cak nasao i 4 meseca...

E da , jos jedna stvar... Da li treba necim da se tretia pre sadnje ili bar voda da stoji u saksiji neko vreme zbog krecnjaka?

ja sam drzala pa dan /dva pod folijom ( kesom ) a posle izvadila i stavila u hlad na dvoriste ...... ne duze od recimo 7 dana

e sad za posle ..pre sadjenja nisam merodavna -meni sluze kao svecnjaci ( zeznula se pa , dok sam isprobavala "recepte " te koje sam namenila za visece saksije -su mi "ispale " MaLo teze .... pa me bilo frka da ih bushim kachim

elem, ja sam ih uradila , prekrila kesom i tek za 24 sata ..... dok su tako svezi mozesh im staviti ruchkice i svashta neshto .... ali tek kad se osushe ih mozeshh bushiti ( sigurnije )
"ZiVchana" chetka je radila tek posle 48 sati ali i onda oprezno ( trebash probati )

Ok. Hvala puno.

Video sam na netu da su u vezi sa ovim i razni ukrasi za baštu izrađeni ovom tehnikom. Da li za to koriste isto određene kalupe ili?

Video sam i sa klupima, a i sa kokosijom zicom, ako se prave veštačke stene.

ama shta ti je to "kokoshija zica" ?

Meni je ovaj chika najvishe pomogao KLIK

ali, ponavljam , recepti su podlozni promenama

ovo se mora probati

Kokosija zica.

ama zbuni me choveche...
sad mi jasno ako nemash kokoshki i zice umesto te "armature " mozesh i
[url= ipeda.hr/oprema-za-kro...adjevinska vlakna[/url]
ima ih i kod nas ..a ne rizikujesh da ishta proviri ...za neko vreme a ide ih ...."sekunda"

Ovo ne samo da je kreativno, nego dođe i kao neka ekološka mera Mislim pre svega zbog mogućnosti upotrebe raznog otpada u ove svrhe (poput tih plastičnih flaša) Treba probati ovo